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 Post subject: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:09 am 
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Team Axis

Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:29 pm
Posts: 207
Was quoted $410 to winterize and change oil in My A20. No thanks, so now what do I do?

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:48 am 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:19 am
Posts: 438
Location: Mt. Washington, KY
Buy an oil extractor for oil and v drive fluid changes, I have a panther brand that works good I bought years ago there's also pela and others. There's a big thread on here somewhere on winterizing but some engines are different if you have closed cooling etc.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:55 am 
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What is on that list for $410? They break that down for you? You must have a few extra steps than we do here in Texas.


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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 7:31 am 
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Team Axis

Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:29 pm
Posts: 207
admin wrote:
What is on that list for $410? They break that down for you? You must have a few extra steps than we do here in Texas.


Winterize without ballast and change oil.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:06 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:02 am
Posts: 272
VAstyle wrote:
admin wrote:
What is on that list for $410? They break that down for you? You must have a few extra steps than we do here in Texas.


Winterize without ballast and change oil.

That price is crazy. Here is what my dealer charges and all of the things included.

https://mninboard.com/winterization-pricing/


I did my own this year though, it's pretty easy. I had someone show me how and it took half hour.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:26 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:19 pm
Posts: 179
Location: SE Wisconsin
Hook your boat up to a fake a lake pump or your perko flush via a hose.
Start and run the boat to get up towards operating temp to allow the oil to thin.
There is a small hose that runs from the bottom of the oil pan for draining. You will find it hooked to a metal ring to keep the bottom of this hose higher than the oil pan. You can most easily find it by entering your port side locker and removing the sidewall and then tracing the hose from the bottom of the oil pan.
Turn off the boat and push this hose towards the drain hole at the back of the boat. It may not reach out but should reach close. Run a little of your extractor hose up the drain hole and connect the two hoses. The oil pan hose is threaded at the end. I purchased a variety of threaded barb hose fittings to ensure this connection is air tight.
Create pressure with your oil extractor and the oil will drain from the pan. This may take a little bit of time. When done recover the drain hose and secure it back on the metal ring.
Once the pan is drained I remove the oil filter. This is difficult and potentially messy. I like to use plastic gloves and put a garbage bag down to collect any mess. An oil filter wrench will help remove the filter. I have seen filters so tight that they were removed with screw drivers punctured through to create a handle. The oil filter is best accessed from the starboard locker.
Replace the oil filter with a new filter filed half full with new oil. I believe some wipe a little bit of oil around the seal of the filter as well.
Pour new oil in. You can see a bright yellow cap on the engine not far from the oil filter. I believe it is 5.5 quarts. I pour in 5 and allow everything to settle for a bit. Its tough to get every bit of oil. Check the dipstick and use the remaining oil to get to the appropriate range. If you overfill drain a little as you did before. If you are not confident, restart the boat when ready and bring it back up to tempurature. Check the oil level and add/drain as necessary.

Transmission fluids are easier. There are two red twist dipsticks on the transmission under the sliding rear seat. Pump them both empty using your extractor with the hose directly into the fluid cavity after removing the dipsticks. Replace the fluid. I don't remember the quantities but one is roughly twice as large as the other. Check that that the appropriate amount of fluid has been added by setting the clean dipstick back into its slot. Do not screw the dipstick in, you are meant to set it there on the threads to check.

That's how I do it. Others may chime in and say otherwise but I've had no issues. I don't think I missed anything major.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:29 pm 
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Team Axis
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Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:19 pm
Posts: 179
Location: SE Wisconsin
Before doing any of this I'd be sure you are confident the boat is getting good flow through your fake a lake. Obviously this is important during the warming of the engine step. If you don't know the boat is getting good cooling water stop what you are doing. Don't engage the prop when the boat is out of the water.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 7:05 am 
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Team Axis

Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 6:28 pm
Posts: 60
Location: Arkansas
Check out the "Winterizing your Axis" thread by Walter. It helped me learn how to do it myself. The oil and trans fluid change is an easy task after you get a siphon pump.


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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 10:39 am 
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Team Axis

Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:29 pm
Posts: 207
Thanks guys. I've done the winterizing before just not the oil. I'm gonna call dealer tomorrow to make sure they didn't switch to synthetic on my 100 hour service.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Change in A20... Help please.
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 4:29 pm 
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Team Axis

Joined: Tue May 24, 2016 7:44 am
Posts: 137
wtstapel wrote:
Hook your boat up to a fake a lake pump or your perko flush via a hose.
Start and run the boat to get up towards operating temp to allow the oil to thin.
There is a small hose that runs from the bottom of the oil pan for draining. You will find it hooked to a metal ring to keep the bottom of this hose higher than the oil pan. You can most easily find it by entering your port side locker and removing the sidewall and then tracing the hose from the bottom of the oil pan.
Turn off the boat and push this hose towards the drain hole at the back of the boat. It may not reach out but should reach close. Run a little of your extractor hose up the drain hole and connect the two hoses. The oil pan hose is threaded at the end. I purchased a variety of threaded barb hose fittings to ensure this connection is air tight.
Create pressure with your oil extractor and the oil will drain from the pan. This may take a little bit of time. When done recover the drain hose and secure it back on the metal ring.
Once the pan is drained I remove the oil filter. This is difficult and potentially messy. I like to use plastic gloves and put a garbage bag down to collect any mess. An oil filter wrench will help remove the filter. I have seen filters so tight that they were removed with screw drivers punctured through to create a handle. The oil filter is best accessed from the starboard locker.
Replace the oil filter with a new filter filed half full with new oil. I believe some wipe a little bit of oil around the seal of the filter as well.
Pour new oil in. You can see a bright yellow cap on the engine not far from the oil filter. I believe it is 5.5 quarts. I pour in 5 and allow everything to settle for a bit. Its tough to get every bit of oil. Check the dipstick and use the remaining oil to get to the appropriate range. If you overfill drain a little as you did before. If you are not confident, restart the boat when ready and bring it back up to tempurature. Check the oil level and add/drain as necessary.

Transmission fluids are easier. There are two red twist dipsticks on the transmission under the sliding rear seat. Pump them both empty using your extractor with the hose directly into the fluid cavity after removing the dipsticks. Replace the fluid. I don't remember the quantities but one is roughly twice as large as the other. Check that that the appropriate amount of fluid has been added by setting the clean dipstick back into its slot. Do not screw the dipstick in, you are meant to set it there on the threads to check.

That's how I do it. Others may chime in and say otherwise but I've had no issues. I don't think I missed anything major.


Just did mine after wRmimg oil and all I did was leave the 12 mm open end wrench I used to hold hose fitting at top to disengage the hose fitting from cap with clip on the valve cover and wrench held hose up and in place. Shoved extractor hose down tube and ran pump. No fitting no hassle

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