Axis Wakeboard Boat Forum

Okay, still working on this. I've got the sub on channels 5 and 6 and channels 1 and 2 run the in-boat speakers. 3 and 4 aren't connected. So I moved 1 and 2 into 3/4 and managed to get the blue light on! Woohoo! I could actually hear sound coming out of my sub. Then I plugged 1 in and got sound out of the R side of the boat. So I unplugged that plugged in 2 and got sound out of the L side of the boat. Then I plugged both of them in and for a few seconds, everything was working! Then I blew two more fuses and was all out of fuses.

I took it in to the dealer today (my parts warranty lasts another week, although I suspect since I got the amp going that the main expense here is going to be labor) but their stereo guy is a week out. I'm going on a week long trip in 5 days, so it's either on me or someone else I can hire besides the dealership or else all I get is tower speaker sound on the trip.

I think I'll buy some more fuses and see if I can figure out if it is channel 1 or 2 tomorrow, but once I narrow that down, what is the procedure for finding the short? Do I pull each of the three speakers out and look behind them for some gap in the wires or something?

Brian- what is the neutral wore or ground? It seems to me all the wires go fully into the amp where they're supposed to.

Have the gains been turned up on the amp?

If so it could be clipping which could cause it.

I can check today, but I don't really know what they were set at before.

If it's a factory amp there will be a warranty sticker over them.

As far as the gain switches, they are all about in the middle of the range. There was no sticker over them, but I've also had the stereo worked on before at the dealership so they could have been peeled off previously. It was an original stereo that came on the brand new boat.

I bought a box of 25 fuses today and went nuts on them. I can no longer get the blue light on. In fact, I can't keep the red light on.
There is 12 V to the amp through the big power cord. There is 12V to the amp through the small power cord (REM).

With all RCA cables detached and with the 3/4 plug on the bottom, the 5/6 plug on the bottom, and with the channel 1 Pos/neg wires and the channel 2 Pos/neg wires detached from the plug, I plug in the main power cord and the REM/1/2 cord and it still immediately blows the fuses. It does not blow a fuse if I only have the main power cord plugged in and pull out the REM/1/2 plug on the bottom. However, it doesn't give me a red or blue light with the REM/1/2 plug out.

Does that mean there is an issue with the amp itself, or is it an issue with the REM cord from the head unit? And if it could be either, how would I tell the difference?

Don't see how the remote wire could cause the fuses to blow.. pull the amp and have them bench test it. Takes 5 minutes and would have saved you a lot of time at this point.

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Yep.

All it is doing is turning the amplifier on with low amperage. Once it's powered up then the fuse blows.

Sounds to me like the amp is internally damaged if it's doing this with no speakers hooked up.

I'm all for having someone else do it, but as noted above they can't get me in before my week long trip. So either I fix it, or we just have tower speakers for the trip.

Most stereo shop can bench test it for free most likely.

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If it were a month later, I'd do that, but my parts warranty has another week on it.