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 Post subject: Winterizing Your Axis
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:09 pm 
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This is just a quick write up on the winterization process on non cat freshwater engines in the Axis A-22 and A-20, saltwater engines will differ due to the closed circuit cooling system and catalyst engines exhaust drains will differ slightly. There will be a description with the photo and the process that I use to winterize my A22.

Always remember prior to winterizing and draining all excess water from your boat to run the engine with a fresh water supply and change all of the fluids so it is stored with clean oil in everything, this includes the engine oil, transmission and v-drive unit. Most places that sell boats and equipment also sell the vacuum tank that makes changing the fluids much easier. Just hook it up and pump the handle a few times and wait until its empty, pretty easy to do yourself.

This will not cover removing the prop because most people never do that and does not cover checking the prop shaft clearance to the v-drive flange, it likely never gets looked at by the dealer anyway during winterization, unless there is a vibration issue most people leave that grey area alone. but if you want to get nitty gritty the engine owners manual has the clearance spec for it, just go to sears and get a feeler gauge and its simple to check.

Also remember to add sta-bil to the fuel tank and alcohol treatment if your fuel contains ethanol, you dont have to fill the tank up because of the new materials they are made of today just be sure to treat it
back in the day the old steel tanks were bad about rusting due to moisture collecting in the tank if it wasn't full but that's a thing of the past with the new tank designs.


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File comment: This is the standard Indmar 5.7 335hp that Axis uses in freshwater boats, the 400hp engine will be identical in looks and will winterize the same too
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File comment: Remove the 2 side panels to gain access to the sides of the engine
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File comment: At the top of the oil pan rail in the center of the engine you will see one brass 1/4 inch pipe thread plug, use a 9/16 wrench or socket and remove the plugs from each side of the engine
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Last edited by Walter on Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:03 am, edited 5 times in total.
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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:09 pm 
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these are the most important plugs to remove by far, if you dont drain the engine block and have a freeze you can usually count on needing a new engine block, and they don't come cheap, The water in there will freeze and crack your cylinder liners, do not skip any steps, do them in any order but just make sure to do them. Be sure to remove the plug on both sides of the engine, one does not drain both sides, the water jackets will hold nearly a gallon individually per side


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File comment: The passenger side may be a bit harder to see due to the blower hose being right below the exhaust but use a flashlight and you will see it easily
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File comment: This is with the plug removed and all water drained, usually about 1 to 1.5 gallons will come out, if you remove the plug and nothing comes out you may have sediment covering the hole, if this happens use a small flathead screwdriver and gently push it into the hole and use a twisting motion to break the dirt loose while pushing up toward the cylinder head, this is only to be done on the gen 1 small block chevy engine used in all 09-11 Axis boats, the LS3 and big block engines have blind holes and draining them will be different.
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Last edited by Walter on Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:55 am, edited 6 times in total.
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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:10 pm 
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save for more pictures


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File comment: Next remove the transmission cover and locate the 2 brass plugs on the rear of the v-drive, when reinstalling them DO NOT use any sealant or anything on the threads, these are sacrificial anodes and must be able to conduct electricity to do their job correctly
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File comment: not much water came out of mine but it has been sitting for about a month, the water in this area drained back out of the water intake on the underside of the boat, you can see that the hoses are all pretty flat going through the v-drive to the water intake on the drivers side and from the v-drive to the sea water pump inlet on the passenger side, the manual says to remove both hoses and drain the water out but I didn't last year and had no problem, if you live in a very cold climate it may be a good idea to take them off just to be safe
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File comment: These are the sacrificial anodes in the v-drive, they should be replaced if they are over 50% corroded, better these than the engine block if you ask me
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Last edited by Walter on Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:10 pm 
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x


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File comment: next look below the exhaust manifolds, there should be a 5/8 hose connecting the two sides together that loops under the oil pan and has a water hose connector on it, unscrew it and let all the water drain out of the exhaust
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File comment: unscrew this hose just like you would a water hose
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File comment: be sure when you put this back together that the seal is in there, if you lose it just pick one up for a water hose at your closest hardware store
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Last edited by Walter on Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:10 pm 
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File comment: On the driver side locate the transmission cooler just above the alternator and below the exhaust manifold outlet
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File comment: loosen the hose clamp and remove the lower hose on this cooler, this hose is the main water inlet to the engine coming from the sea water pump and it will hold water in it that can freeze and damage the cooler, push the hose down toward the floor to get all of the water out of the hose
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File comment: look for the J hose going from the thermostat housing to the water pump, disconnect this hose at the water pump
photo.jpg
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Last edited by Walter on Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:56 am, edited 2 times in total.
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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:11 pm 
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File comment: This is the fogging oil that indmar recommends using, use this in the engine and on any bare metal parts, particularly down by the steering cable
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File comment: remove the air filter and unplug the ignition coil, have someone crank the engine for about ten seconds and spray the fogging oil into the throttle body, button everything back up and your done
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File comment: you can pick up a flush kit for a few bucks at the auto parts store and hook up but I wouldn't start the engine with one of these, they don't supply the impeller with enough water, it really needs to have a water supply from under the boat, the only thing I would use this for is a place to add antifreeze if you really think you need it, just splice it into a heater hose and there you go
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Last edited by Walter on Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:46 am, edited 3 times in total.
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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:11 pm 
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If your boat came equipped with a heater you can notice the 5/8 hose just to the right of the oil filler cap, take this hose off and blow through it with your mouth.....do this before you put the lower engine plugs back in because you can generally get another gallon or so out of the heater hoses and core, you can also take this time to get a funnel and pour some antifreeze in the heater hose if you are worried about freezing. That is pretty much it


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Last edited by Walter on Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:11 pm 
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This is a good link to follow also
http://www.inboardonline.com/library/Ho ... 923495.pdf


Last edited by Walter on Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:23 pm 
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A few people have asked what is the best way to winterize the ballast and in my opinion just make sure they are drained is all you really need to do, jack the trailer up as high as it will go and turn on the drain pumps, as long as the tanks are empty you don't have anything to worry about, if it will make you feel better you can get a curved funnel and just pour some antifreeze down the drain outlet right at the side of the boat, it will get to where it needs to be without disconnecting anything, just make sure it's the enviro safe stuff so you don't kill something.


Last edited by Walter on Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: The 4-1-1 On Winterizing Your Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 11:24 pm 
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this is the oil change pump that I have

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PEL-PL ... acity.html

this one shows to list for 99$ but I found mine local for probably half that
they are really clean and easy to use, you will need a container to put the used oil in to dispose of, sone places will take it at no charge, I do, we have shop heaters that use waste oil instead of gas, very efficient heat source


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PEL-PL-650_med.jpg
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