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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:36 pm 
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Walter, thank you, that was amazing. One question, is the connectors under that square piece that is screwed down tho the floor in the rear compartment or do we have to cut the hose?


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:10 pm 
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Location: BoomTown!
No, all you need to do is follow that hose up to the loops on the seat back, loosen the clamp, loop that hose back around to the front lower port on the bag, keep it as low as possible so it drains easier. Then take the loop of hose in between the two anti siphon valves loose and hook it to the top of the bag. You can use the quick connects if you want but it's not necessary if you plan on leaving them in. You're done
Just make sure that at least one anti siphon loop is hooked up on each side or else the bags will gravity drain back out into the lake


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:18 pm 
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The square cover in the floor is just there to protect the plastic hose fittings that are screwed into the tank, under the cover is the fill hose and vent hose fittings, be gentle moving them around because they are plastic, the only one you even need touch is the fill line


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 6:44 pm
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May be a dumb question but my boat didn't come with the factory plug n play. Is this process the same for me to get the extra ballast in my boat or is there some other stuff I need to buy?


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:11 pm 
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It should be similar In the rear since you use the same pumps but in the front you will need to either use a universal type pump and hose that you can throw over the side to fill or you can go the headache method and mount a pump in the hull like the ones that are already there and then route an overflow and drain hose venting out the side of the boat, if it were me I'd put a triangle bag on top of the front seat and use a separate pump to drain and fill it, I'm pretty sure you can get more weight on top of the seat than under it anyway, then you can retain all the storage up front and not have a bag up there, if you have a bunch of people with you just leave the front bag out and get them to sit up front In its place.


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2011 1:58 pm
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Location: Smith Mt Lake, VA
Agreed on the front weight. I think the bag under the bow seats only hits about 50% before being constrained. I took everything out for winter and been just manually loading it up ontop of the bow seat and its night and day different. This hull really shines with appropriate weight in the bow. Thanks for reminding me, Im going to look for 300lb of lead now....


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:46 pm 
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morris. Lead-wake makes 50 lbs bags of lead, great product. I recently switched from pop products to lead wake because everything is better about the product. as for now weight, I have 400 lbs of lead in the front pickles. I have the pnp sack under the seats. if it only fills to half, 500 lbs, then with the lead I am at 900 lbs. I am curious to know how much it weights being stuck under the seats.

If you pop off the small pad in the center front of the bow you will see a 6" hole that is used to access the void space in the pickles for the bow light/nav lights. If you cut to make that hole a little bit bigger, you can easily slide in the lead wake bags.

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John
2011 A22


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:54 am 
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Thanks. Sounds like exactly what I need to do....


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:47 pm 
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should have read "as for BOW weight", not "as for now weight"

3 cautions. First, when cutting the fiberglass in the bow behind the little triangle pad, that pops off real easily and use a flat plastic object so not to scratch gel coat or vinyl (i used my sons toy flathead screwdriver :), make sure you do not cut out any area that will not be hidden by the triangle pad. use masking tape to trace the triangle pad before you pop it off, that will give you an idea of where to keep your cuts.

Second. with 400lbs concentrated all the way to the tip of the bow, their will be noticable pitch forward when all water ballast is empty. (unless you have lead in the rear lockers as well), and when loading the boat, keep a few hundred pounds in the rear ballast (hard tanks full should be fine), otherwise it is difficult to load the boat on the trailer, the bow tip will want to dip under the roller. I powerload and had to learn this the hard way, after 20 frustrating minutes on the ramp. Luckily all the bow weight empties a lot faster than the rears, so it works out well for me.

thirdly, since the weight is all the way to the tip of the bow, there is a lot of leverage, more so than when the same amount of weight is under the bow storage, so watch the trailer jack and inspect the wheel, it is slightly more difficult to jack up the bow.

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2011 A22


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 Post subject: Re: How To Hook Up Your Plug N' Play
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 6:44 pm
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Can I use the pump for the center tank like you use the pumps on the back or do I have to buy a new pump to hook up on the front switch and just fill and empty the new p n p sack?


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